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They come with chunks of pepper, onion and zucchini, and to my mind they represent the highest and best use of a grill.
We gave high marks, too, to the California frisée bistro salad laced with bacon, garlic croutons, Gorgonzola cheese and a red wine vinaigrette, and to the baby spinach salad with goat cheese, candied pecans and a red pepper dressing with big chunks of pepper.
Thread the chunks of pepper, onion and beef on to your skewers – I use 10 13cm bamboo skewers. 2 As ever, the longer you can leave the ingredients to marinate the better, so if you have time, lay the skewers in a dish, cover with clingfilm and leave in the fridge for at least 1-2 hours, but preferably overnight if you're organised and have planned ahead.
Puree the mixture until there are no large chunks of pepper.
Process the sauce until the chunks of pepper and garlic have blended with the creamy base to create a smooth, pourable puree.
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If your face stops producing sweat and tears before you're ready for the scene to end, find a way to eat another chunk of pepper.
Beer duck, a stew recommended by another waiter on our second visit — and a handwritten addition to the menu — was less refined, with cleaver-chopped bird, fat wedges of mushrooms, chunks of green pepper, garlic slices and more of the smoky red chili peppers.
Puree the mixture until there are no large chunks of pepper.. Puree the mixture of peppers and half-and-half.
Or try the stewlike giobatto: jumbo portions of veal, chicken and sausage, served over egg noodles in a fennel-accented tomato broth with chunks of bell pepper and whole button mushrooms.
Other meats that turned heads were the fork-tender lamb shank perfumed with sweet spices, filet mignon encrusted with mustard seeds, a sky-high veal chop in a balsamic sauce dotted with sun-dried tomatoes and onions, and pollo alla paesana: chunks of chicken, pepper, onion and mushroom with a whisper of balsamic vinegar.
The entree stars at a recent meal were the Caribbean lobster risotto loaded with chunks of seafood, peppers, charred local corn and a yellow tomato beurre blanc, and a dish called the Baby Grand, perfectly grilled medallions of filet mignon balanced on garlicky potato logs with a crown of chunky avocado salad.
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