18 Stir-fry a pound or so of ground meat or chopped fish mixed with chopped onions and seasoned with cumin or chili powder.
Add the chopped fish livers and lemon juice and season to taste.
It's an unusually elegant composition, especially measured against most ceviches, those delicious if messy piles of chopped fish.
Vegetables are crudely chopped; fish is served with head and tail; everything comes under a veil of coarse sea salt.
A wasabi blini was wrapped around the chopped fish, then cut into rounds and presented sushi-style with mounds of wasabi and pickled ginger on the plate.
During the morning feeding, I watched aggressive Crevalle jacks swoop up to nab bits of chopped fish, whipping their tails and then disappearing back into the depths.
Tuna ta-da-boom (more "Sopranos") was an intriguing version of tuna tartare, with the chopped fish served in petite poached tomatoes with shallot-herb butter and a soupçon of sweet-sour spicy miso sauce.
The chopped fish is served on a round green marble plate and garnished with a little squiggle of cream and wasabi that is topped with a pale green sprinkling of flying-fish roe and little shreds of radish, so it looks like some exotic form of marine biology.
Although her mother boned the fish, then sewed the skins together to encase the stuffing, Mrs. Kushner simply places a few long sheets of skin on a piece of aluminum foil, fills them with the chopped fish mixture, then covers it with more skin and encloses the whole "fish" in the foil.
The best-selling spicy tuna, with its neat rolls tucked beneath a sloppy extra portion of chopped fish turned orange by chili sauce (and a touch of garlic), began as creamy richness with a briny undertone, then moved to separate grains of rice and a burn that lingered long enough to make you hungry for another bite.
