Call ahead; the owner will tell you what's on the menu -- usually a choice of fish, chicken or beef.
Far from it being a recipe set in stone, even the choice of fish in a salade niçoise is up for debate.
It comes with a choice of fish, and you can't go wrong the salt-flecked mackerel is as perfect a bite as the kombu-cured roasted sea bass.
Or you can head towards the harbour and the Portuguese quarter for a wide choice of fish and other culinary options - the no-nonsense Beira Rio, with its extensive, reasonably-priced menu and thoroughly refreshing Jever beer, is highly recommended.
Come hungry, order the mangshor thali (620 rupees, or $11.50 at 54 rupees to the dollar) and receive your choice of fish, a vegetable and a meat curry, along with rice, dal, dessert and more.
After two pages of very concise instructions, from the choice of fish to the shaping of the quenelles on spoons, they wrote, "If by any chance your quenelle paste turns out to be too soft to poach as quenelles, it will taste every bit as good if you declare it to be a mousse".
And more dishes could have used the lively touches that enhanced the excellent truffle white tuna (five gossamer cuts of fish dressed in citric yuzu mixed with fragrant truffle oil) or the Japanese crudo, a diner's choice of fish lightly marinated in sweet-sour rice vinegar.
Besides, she also commented that the choice of fish species by consumers is crucial to the balance between the risks and benefits of consuming fish.
