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This salad could be a first course, but could also be an excellent light meal, perhaps with a chilled melon starter and a little cheese assortment after.
A starter of chilled, frothy cucumber soup with a spoonful of salmon tartare (did I say overplayed?) was good but a tad showy.
A good starter is the chilled fennel-and-celeriac soup with a superfluous plop of lime-basil sorbet in the middle.
For starters, try the chilled Maine lobster Napoleon, which is layers of paper-thin mango, topped with avocado and lobster, or the golden tom yum Thai lobster soup, with coconut and lemongrass broth finished with fresh cilantro.
Chilled green asparagus was a "welcome to spring" starter of natural freshness: perfectly cooked stalks with tender, al dente spring peas and raw mushrooms in a light cream dressing.
From a menu that is short and light on nonsushi dishes, we found several likeable starters, especially goma tofu (mousse-like) and chilled tofu (though the soy-wasabi sauce was oversalted).
As often happens, the starters outshined the entrees and the best was a special, chilled curried carrot and yogurt soup.
Chilled perfection!
Starters include grilled shrimp with white beans, sage and radicchio; fresh fig goat cheese and pine nuts; and chilled carrot and fennel soup.
Chilled squid salad.
Even the meat starters were highlights: the meatballs with fresh oregano and drizzled with a feta cheese sauce, and the slider trio that featured mini beef and lamb burgers and chilled lobster salad on sweet little brioche rolls.
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com