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I ripped off a small piece, and gingerly dipped it into the chickpea sauce.
Arzak shows how to pour only a slight bit of the chickpea sauce over her garnish.
He wanted polipetti affogati, scarola e salsa di ceci, or stewed baby octopus with escarole lettuce and chickpea sauce to those without an Italian degree.
The garnish is watchmaker's work: boletus and fried chicken feet (yes!) nestle in finger-size crisp yucca boats, which are then topped with thinly sliced agar agar (a gelatin thickener) that will dissolve and restructure when hot chickpea sauce is poured over it at the table.
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Little lasagna noodles made with chestnut flour go beautifully with a chickpea and sausage sauce ($9), as does penne with a creamy walnut sauce ($8.50) and guitar-string pasta with a Sicilian sauce of mashed sardine, dill and raisins ($9.50).
Other satisfying dishes included palak paneer (spinach with soft cubes of house-made cheese), navaratan korma (mixed vegetables with nuts and cream sauce), chickpea curry, and bhindi masala (okra cooked with spices).
The small selection of entrees includes sherry-marinated hangar steak with chimichurri sauce, chickpea hash and burnt basil vinaigrette; and braised free-range chicken with grape leaves, Iberian bacon, oyster mushrooms, creamy potatoes and port.
Here you can get bread puffs filled with chickpeas, potatoes, tamarind sauce and yogurt; a supergingery potato cake with coriander and mint chutney; tiny crisp crackers made from chickpea flour; assorted pakora and samosas; and more, on a rotating basis.
Eschewing the only ladylike main course – Icelandic cod with chickpeas and Romesco sauce – she ordered Mongetes, which is a kind of cassoulet, and instantly regretted it.
5. To serve, spoon a handful of chickpeas and some sauce into each of four shallow bowls, add two rabbit pieces and cover with more sauce.
Bring to a boil and cook for three minutes, so the liquid thickens; mash some of the chickpeas into the sauce to help it along.
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com