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THERE are few better ways to greet guests than with socca, the chickpea "pizza" from Nice.
Buffalo chickpea pizza, anyone?
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"This place is a gold mine for foodies," says Gearhart, who uses the squash for several different recipes: curried, with chickpeas; on pizza; roasted, with kale; griddled, for tostadas.
They settled on a menu of whole-wheat pizza, chickpea soup and an avocado salad.
When you looked through the door, they were either preparing Sicilian sweets: tubes of cannoli and breast-like minni di sant'agata: or Sicilan street food: deep-pinched pizza and chickpea fritters to be served in a cone with lemon or stuffed into soft bread rolls.
Both men cook for their families, and decided that for their meal together, they would make dishes that regularly appear on their tables at home: Mr. Moss's pizza, and a chickpea soup that Mr. Pollan makes using canned garbanzos and a lemon.
Cooked up in a large metal vat, the spleen is a must, but faint hearts can settle for other hand-held snacks like arancine al ragù (fried rice balls filled with meat sauce), panelle (chickpea fritters) and sfincioni – soft pizzas topped with tomato, anchovy, onion and caciocavallo cheese.
Kati and Philippe are welcoming hosts, and this is the place to discover little-known regional wines such as Bellet, Villars-sur-Var, and Saint Jeannet. 3 Rue de la Tour, +33 4 9380 0331 cavedelatour.com, open Tue-Sat 7am-8pm, Sun 7am-12.30pm Nonene should leave Nice without trying the famous Socca, a local take on pizza, but made with chickpea flour and olive oil.
In between bouts of pushing and rubbing, we get the chance to sample some of Bonci's current works in progress, including a goat's cheese ricotta and courgette pizza, potato and mozzarella, chickpea spread and mortadella, plus a beautifully moist leg of lamb in a calzone-style case.
(They do have some items without dulce de leche, but why bother?) 9 p.m. 3) HOLD THE CHEESE Casual restaurants in Montevideo have strikingly similar menus based around chopp (draft beer), muzzarelas (tasty Sicilian pizza slices), fainá (flatbread made with chickpea flour) and chivitos (steak sandwiches).
On top of a wood-fire-cooked pizza, ordered by the meter, you may find a thin chickpea flatbread called fainá.
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