In the 1660s, discussing the culinary innovations that had recently taken root in Louis XIV's France, an English chef named Robert May bemoaned his French counterparts' newfound focus on "Sauce rather than Diet".
Gramercy Farmer & the Fish is one of the latest articulations of the theme, and a counterpart to Purdy's Farmer & the Fish, which the chef Michael Kaphan opened, five years ago, in Westchester, along with his partner and fishmonger, Edward Taylor.
At Little Bear, Sweeney handpicked the Belgian-specific beer list, and like his wine counterparts, he can offer pairing suggestions to go with chef Andre Guerrero's (The Oinkster, Maximiliano) dishes.
If we're just talking numbers, it's not: a survey conducted by the American Culinary Foundation found that female executive chefs make $18,000 less annually than their male counterparts, and Maclean's reported in late 2011 that women hold only 10percentt of executive chef positions in the U.S. Across professions, the numbers aren't much better.
And Jérôme Ferrer, the chef at Europea (1227, rue de la Montagne; 514-398-9229; europeneda), recently opened a more casual and Catalan-inspired counterpart, Andiamo (1083, côte du Beaver Hall; 514-861-2634; andiamo.ca).
To use the French designations, which are as unsettled as their English counterparts, a boulanger bakes breads; a pâtissier is typically a guy with a storefront; and a chef pâtissier, a pastry chef, produces desserts in a restaurant kitchen, and, turning out mousses and gels and meringues, may rarely make pastry properly so called.
If it is true, as García Santos claims, that unlike their Spanish counterparts, young French chefs are primarily looking for money, the reason may be a social problem, not a character flaw.
Pedrolino was his counterpart.
