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Here the food – goulash, schnitzel, vast plates of roast duck, cabbage and dumplings – was entirely in keeping with the rustic, wood-lined dining room.
Where to eat For proof that there's more to Polish cuisine than cabbage and dumplings, book a table at Studio Qulinarne, where traditional ingredients (wild boar, venison, mushrooms, berries) are given a contemporary spin in the industrial-chic surroundings of a former bus depot (studioqulinarne.pl).pl
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She wanted roast duck with red cabbage and potato dumplings.
Pistachio-crusted snapper, duck breast wrapped in cabbage and manti dumplings with wild mushrooms and field spinach will be on the menu.
Try a cream of pumpkin soup (€8.50) or half a Brandenburg duck with apple red cabbage and potato dumplings (€22) accompanied by riesling sekt.
Bee pollen is a mild shocker, but it's counterbalanced by the solid Germanic hominess of red cabbage and pretzel dumplings.
Annoyingly, the one I was most excited about trying, the pizza joint Slice (unit 146/147, alley 4), wasn't open, but Nan Bei's (unit 62, alley 2) cabbage and pork dumplings (get them pan-fried, £4 for six), were worth the detour.
Bread and dumplings?
Boiled meat and cabbage dumplings ($6.50) and boiled seafood dumplings ($7), filled with minced shrimp, squid, mussels and crab, are fine, though the wrappings are a little doughy.
I especially liked the flower-shape steamed meat-and-cabbage dumplings ($7).
When presented at the meeting with a menu of Czech food, including roast duck, cabbage and traditional potato dumplings, Mr. Sarkozy seemed to summarize the mood: he declined and asked for an omelet instead.
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com