And George W. Bush, hugged as he is by platter-size belt buckles, imparts a Texas extra-largeness wherever he goes.
It is no easy feat, especially this year, as most seats were occupied by platters of cold cuts or cookies.
The pot was placed in the center of the table, surrounded by platters of poached chicken and short ribs that had been cooked in the broth, along with corn on the cob and potatoes.
Such disparate options don't usually appear on the same menu, but Mr. Chang trusts diners not to be disoriented by an assortment of dishes without any instantly clear theme or overriding ethnic allegiance — by platters of artisanal American hams next to a tangle of Sichuan-style beef tendon alongside a hanger steak with a romesco sauce.
The air-conditioning is on the fritz, but she never breaks a sweat while plowing through a plateful of herbs and fava beans followed by a platter of filet mignon atop collard greens, all washed down by a goblet of merlot and two iced teas.
Alcohol and food pairings include a bottle of Russian Standard accompanied by a platter of osetra caviar and seafood ($550).
It was followed by a platter of baby cabbages arranged in a perfect oval around steamed little mushrooms.
We eat fresh tomato soup, followed by a platter of pâté, olives and cheese but the highlight is the wine.
A sweet, one-and-a-half-pound roasted lobster, too, was escorted by a platter of fries.
Soon enough, the table was overtaken by a platter of parchment-thin bresaola carpaccio and an umami bomb of rich, creamy burratina cheese mixed with sautéed mushrooms and enough fresh parsley to qualify as a side salad.
The very best of the entrees was a dish of well-trimmed roasted lamb shanks, two long tibia thick with tender mouth-watering meat accompanied by a platter of onions, tomatoes and rice with dill and fava beans.
