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Soggy, burnt tart Tatin and a flavorless lemon meringue tart were like desserts from a cheap bakery.
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RECOMMENDED DISHES -- Smoked salmon with coriander oil, piquillo peppers stuffed with rabbit and pistachios, garlic shrimp, zarzuela, grilled lamb chops, lemon rice pudding, burnt cream Catalana, clementine tart (special).
I burnt, and burnt, and burnt.
But creme caramel, light and satiny, comes nicely seared on top, with just the right burnt flavor, and fruit tarts (apricot-peach on my most recent visit) have an admirably flaky, buttery crust.
He looked about as happy as a servant having to tell Kim Jong-un why his Pop-Tarts got burnt.
Mr. Lepri's desserts also need a little attention: The crust on the apple tart was undercooked, and the burnt sugar topping on the smooth, pleasingly bitter mocha crème brûlée was a little soft.
I think he split the difference between the two wishes, achieving pictorial art that is like a product of balky, breakdown-prone machinery and also like the fever dream of a Matissean odalisque, in thrall to "luxe, calme et volupté." Warhol was a supreme colorist who redid the world's palette in tart, amazing hues such as cerise, citron, burnt orange, and apple-green.
The obligatory apple tart happens to be excellent, with a properly burnt crust, as does the warm chocolate cake with the molten center.
You order dessert in threes, and here the sixteen-year-old cannot deny herself: the îles flottantes with crunchy burnt caramel, meringue with coffee ice cream, and a hot apple tart.
The apple-crumb tart was a pleasant surprise, with a rich burnt-caramel sauce that tempered the sugary apples and flaky pastry.
The thin apple tart, its pastry crackling crisp, has the near-burnt quality that makes its scoop of caramel ice cream meaningful.
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com