AT the edge of Cory and Linda McKibbin's expansive property on Lakeview Drive, beyond the swing set and the swimming pool, past the family of artificial deer nestled in the grass, lies a creek that doesn't freeze and is the color of burnt tomato soup.
She remembers Hanukkah in pre-war Poland as a time for games like poker or canasta and dreidel spinning, and for food like fried kasha kreplach (wonton-like dumplings filled with buckwheat groats), ungebrennt, a potato soup with "burnt" flour, and of course potato latkes.
BEST DISHES -- Egg foo yong; won-ton soup; lobster with burnt pork; barbecued spareribs; chicken chow mein; lobster soong.
In Guyana they make it with yellow split peas and like it runny as a soup, flavoured with burnt garlic and toasted cumin.
A burnt fragment of Roy Lichtenstein's Whaam! and a coruscated scrap of a Warhol Campbell's soup can appear courtesy of Russian duo Komar and Melamid, who present these singed and ashen fragments (from 1973) as though they'd been rescued from a cold war that turned hot.
The first hit from any curry noodle soup is visual: steam rising from a gilded broth, dotted with burnt-orange oil, flecked with red from dried chilies and brown from warm spices like cinnamon, cumin, black pepper and coriander seed.
For dining, there is a full menu of American fare, with some earthy European touches: burnt wheat fettuccine with mushrooms; buckwheat dumplings with roast chicken; duck pastrami; and short rib soup with spelt berries.
The menu is likely to include burnt wheat pasta with blood sausage and broccoli rabe, chestnut fettuccine with porcini and black truffle sauce, Adriatic fish soup with langoustines, razor clams and mackerel, and braised veal cheeks.
