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"I'm so excited -- there's something great about pairing warm, freshly burnt octopus with that cool, refreshing watermelon".
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An appetizer of "soy-burnt" octopus brings tender, caramelized tentacles set amid a salad of watermelon radish and kiwi fruit, with macerated cucumber as a kind of dressing: salty sweet, with a crunch.
She reaches down and, with some difficulty, hoists into the air an enormous octopus, burnt orange in colour, its white-suckered tentacles flailing about in all directions.
I burnt, and burnt, and burnt.
Entrees to share include Mary's dry-rubbed adobo barbecue chicken drumsticks with radish and sesame; beef ribs; roasted pork shoulder with "pato gravy" and fennel and raspberry slaw; grilled branzino with casava, sauteed agrodolce and black mole brown butter; sea bass, shrimp and octopus ceviche with burnt peanut and chile de arbol; birria with onions three ways; and gorditas.
Last time I was here there were some tripped-out surfdudes, a Scot with tantric dreadlocks, an octopus fisherman called Polipo and some walkers with hot feet and burnt necks, all of us getting off on the luxury of simplicity.
A fat, near-blackened octopus tendril curled round the plate like the alien in Alien, its burnt suckers like hideous vertebrae, its tail whorled and Satanic.
I recently had the most beautiful grilled leeks and octopus there, all slightly smoked by the coals; a world away from burnt sausages and heavy-handed sauces.
Charred octopus was a bit too chewy, though the earthy fragrance was delightful, as were the smoked tomato, nicely charred "burnt" peaches, fennel and corn that accompanied it.
— What burnt?
Flapjack Octopus.
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com