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At Lafayette, Jean-Georges Vongerichten serves buckwheat pasta with codfish.
"There is such a wonderful aroma when I make buckwheat pasta," Mrs. Isidori said.
Yoshi's Cafe in Chicago serves buckwheat pasta with scallops and rock shrimp in a tomato-garlic-basil sauce.
The chef, Donato Scotti, dishes up Italian specialties like grilled calamari ($9) and satisfyingly simple buckwheat pasta with wild mushrooms ($15).
Pizzoccheri (fresh buckwheat pasta) with Swiss chard, three cheeses and garlic-sage butter, oven-baked ribs with polenta, veal in mushroom sauce.
The otoro with lardo on mini-toast was fun, as were several sublimely rustic pastas, such as the pizzoccheri, buckwheat pasta ribbons baked with a salty mélange of sage, Fontina, and Brussels sprouts, and an exemplary spaghetti and meatballs.
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Slow-cooked salmon with creamed lentils, bacon and chanterelles is a sprightly amuse-bouche by comparison with the fearsome chicken cannelloni, two buckwheat-pasta wrappers the size of Christmas crackers that are filled with ricotta and chicken, balanced atop a crisped chicken leg done as a confit, outfitted with a hefty serving of roasted squash and surrounded by a sage and brown butter sauce.
The most egregious offenders are the kasha varnishkes, a muddle of buckwheat, bowtie pasta and chicken gizzards ($8 small, $14 large), and the poutine, French fries topped with cheese curds and an oppressive gravy ($8 classic, $11 with smoked meat).
A choice of vegetables here means crisp and oniony potato pancakes, mashed potatoes with chicken fat and greeven cracklings, kasha varnishkes that combine the nutty buckwheat with pasta bowties and fried silver-dollar potatoes.
He had spent the day shooting foods like buckwheat, corn, pasta, rice, and lentils out of a puffing gun a large, steel contraption that weighs as much as a car.
When it finally came time to taste Shimada's noodles, they were perfect: thick, irregular strands made of coarse-cut buckwheat, a pasta to make an Italian grandmother weep with envy and respect.
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