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Many small-farm holders have full-time jobs in a nonfarming occupation and breed hogs to supplement their income.
They have created industry in New York State with grass fed cattle, and they are raising their own heritage breed hogs, including the rarest breed in America, the Gloucester Old Spot.
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Meat from traditional-breed hogs slaughtered within a period of three winter months is seasoned only with salt and pepper, rubbed with wine and garlic (which cannot be tasted in the final product), sewed into a pig's bladder and trussed for aging.
The American Livestock Breeds Conservancy estimated the Large Black population of the United States at 300 breeding hogs in 2008, and lists its status as "critical", which means that fewer than 200 animals are registered each year in the United States, and there are estimated to be fewer than 2,000 worldwide.
Their parents have come from Mexico and Honduras to pick tobacco, feed and breed the hogs and pack turkey meat.
As they set out to study a very intricate craft, they discovered that even fewer Americans were raising the old breeds of hogs whose thick sheath of sweet, creamy fat is essential to great salumi.
As farmers bred faster-growing hogs with ultralarge, ultralean muscles that could compete as "the other white meat," they were inadvertently selecting for the syndrome, said Dr. Jodi Sterle, a swine specialist at Texas A&M University.
Hog Island sheep are a breed of sheep descended from animals first brought to Virginia's Hog Island in the 1700s.
They exclusively use heritage pork from three East Coast farms (Ecofriendly Farms in Virginia, Cane Creek in North Carolina, and Flying Pigs in New York) that specialize in old breeds, the kind that were popular before hogs were bred to be lean.
Alternative origins proposed for the black colour of the breed are black Guinea hogs imported from Africa (similar to the Guinea Hog of the US) or from Neapolitan pigs.
Heritage Meat Shop is one of several latter-day butchers that seek out breeds of cattle or hogs other than those favored by industrial meat packers.
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