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RECOMMENDED DISHES Plov, braised cabbage with rice and meat, samsa, kuksu, hye of eggplant.
Roast venison is served with a butternut squash flan, braised cabbage and a mulled cider sauce.
Stonington scallops came perfectly butter-browned in a bowl of beet pasta, braised cabbage, bacon and asparagus tips with a delicate Parmesan broth.
The Berkshire pork sirloin medallions had great accompaniments — apple chutney, braised cabbage and maple bacon — but were not as tender as they should have been.
Other dishes I liked were venison carpaccio with chestnuts, juniper and an herb salad made crispy with toasted chestnuts; and pigeon with quince, braised cabbage and bacon.
Chefs across the country are using them to enrich marinades and sauces, drizzling them around braised cabbage and pork, over sharp pecorino cheese or on creamy panna cotta or berries.
The goulash was pleasant but one-dimensional; the goose was dry and overcooked, except for the thigh, which was juicy and delicious, as was the melt-in-the-mouth braised cabbage.
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The current menu features such creative combinations as sweetbreads glazed with Duck-Rabbit stout; crispy duck leg confit atop farro antica; smoked pork loin with Shotgun Betty-braised cabbage and sweet potato and bacon hash, and a New York strip steak with bone marrow crust.
Holy Cow Del Ray in Alexandria, Va., instead is doing an Irish Breakfast Burger (above): A grilled Angus patty with Cheddar cheese, smoked Irish-style banger (sausage), Guinness-cider-braised cabbage, fried egg and whole-grain mustard aïoli on a potato bun.
Entrees include loin of venison with huckleberry sauce, oatmeal pancakes, caraway-braised cabbage, and baby vegetables; butternut squash-herb ravioli with black trumpet mushrooms, braised winter greens and shaved parmigiano; and loin of monkfish with steamed mussels and asparagus.
The fall menu includes spatchcocked partridge with riesling-braised cabbage, black walnut filled Seckle pear and lentil sauce; grilled bison strip steak with a porcini-potato gratin, sauteed rapini and bourbon sauce; and panko-fired quail with a grappa-macerated blackberry and lemon grass salsa and cipollini coulis.
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