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It was pitch black, and there was boiling pig stock all over the floor.
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The restaurant also serves boiled pig's feet ($13.95).
And how do you make brawn while avoiding the scum created by a boiled pig's eye?
Next to the butcher shop is the Heidelberg Restaurant, 1648 Second Avenue, (212) 628-2332, where German lads in lederhosen and lasses in dirndl skirts serve eisbein, or boiled pig's knuckle ($19.95), or a pile of bratwurst to feed six ($118.95) in a dimly lit stuccoed beer hall, all to German music.
At Alfredo de Gran San Bernardo, the Milanese businessmen's restaurant where I first tried the dish, cassoeula was delicious but austere, a sort of cabbagey pot-au-feu whose highlight was a slippery scrap of boiled pig's forehead.
Jacques Chirac has requested eisbein (boiled pigs' knuckle) during visits to his German counterpart, Chancellor Gerhard Schröder.
Try the arroz con pollo, crab empanadas, jalapeño poppers, sticky sweet plantains and — if you're brave — the boiled pigs' ears.
It offers boiled pig-blood tofu," lots of nose-to-tail lamb dishes and the noodles for which the chain is known — much of it with liberal lashings of Sichuan pepper: 41-10 Main Street, Flushing, Queens, no phone yet.
During that turbulent era of civil rights upheaval and war in Vietnam, he exploded from the launch-pad of "chitlin circuit" stardom (named after the characteristic dish of boiled pigs' intestines), playing the chain of "safe" black venues in the south and east, to become a national spokesman for black America.
There are streets lined with shops strictly selling pet supplies, jewelry, potted plants, jokbal (boiled pigs feet), and naengmyeon (North Korean cold noodles).
One recipe by Diana Kennedy, the author of Mexican cookbooks, calls for trimming hominy and boiling a pig's head.
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com