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Bites of crab played an unaccustomed but welcome role in a bowl of minestrone.
During a private reception at Christie's on Wednesday night, dozens of potential buyers were peering into glass cases and discreetly scribbling down lot numbers, in between bites of crab cake and potato pancake with apple chutney.
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So I had a bite of crab sushi, and then my friend who ran the restaurant came running out yelling, like, 'No!
A bit of crab.
That jab to the back of the head when you're taking a bite of your crab cakes might even be a sign of warmth.
All of Walberswick loves a crab, or at least a bit of crabbing.
As downtowner Ilon Perline, 25, put it between bites of a Maryland crab sandwich: "New York is dressing up as New Orleans for Halloween".
The mushimono (steamed) is a single oyster cloaked in rich tortoiseshell-colored sauce; the yakimono (grilled) is half a crisp amadai on a long, handmade plate; the sunomono (vinegared) is three neat bites of wakame-wrapped crab, dotted with half a dozen jewel-like salmon eggs.
All this might seem a little phony, or, worse, crass, but a bite of peekytoe-crab toast ought to stifle your concerns: buttery, salty, with a trace of fennel, it was a brilliant riff on boardwalk cuisine.
The public areas double as exhibition spaces for exquisite pieces from the Newlyn School of Art and, when we dine there on a Friday evening, local people are out in force, sharing mackerel bites and tucking into bowls of crab ravioli.
Pizza's messiness may, in fact, account for part of its appeal among the social set: a welcome divergence from the tidy miniature crab cakes and bites of tuna tartare that are ubiquitous at high-end events.
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com