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Today, Jason's philosophy is to let the vineyard guide him as to the best method of winemaking.
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The area has now become a hotbed of so-called "natural" wine, a riskier method of winemaking that favors later harvests, slow fermentations and selection of the best grapes while rejecting the addition of virtually all outside additions during winemaking.
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It was just this sort of unbidden fermentation that inspired humans so long ago to spend the next few millenniums improving their methods of winemaking.
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The connection to wine, he suggested, came from the realization that the best sort of winemaking was itself an expression of agriculture.
This is a vintage that clearly favors the balance that Mr. Guigal cited; many of the wines combine the signature golden richness of viognier with the freshness and elegance that mark the best of French winemaking.
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