But the real standout is busketti, beef simmered in a rich spiced sauce and served with that silky smooth spaghetti and rice.
It is, according to the author, a Scottish hash made from cold sliced roast beef simmered in a broth with vegetables and spices.
Traditionally it is made with beef simmered so long it falls into shreds, but because paladares are not permitted to serve beef (it is reserved for state-run restaurants), this was made with lamb.
We also liked the tender rendang beef simmered with mixed vegetables, crispy fried tangerine sea bass (delicate fish with shallots, scallions and fresh chilies in a tangy, tart citrus sauce), and shrimp tempura with delicious wasabi-tinged spinach.
The slow braised steak pizzaiola ($14.95) hit the bulls-eye:, slabs of soft beef simmering in a dark liquid studded with plum tomatoes, roasted garlic and oregano atop a risotto cake that will appeal to pot roast and stew aficionados.
Wander east, to 10th Street between First and Second Avenues, and there are hot bowls of ramen sloshing atop the counter at Rai Rai Ken, and Berkshire pork cutlets quilted in comforting spiced gravy at Curry-Ya, and crimson slivers of beef simmering away their fat in hot pots at Shabu-Tatsu.
The pho bánh mì is an elegant concept, especially in Los Angeles: beef simmered in broth scented with cinnamon and star anise, laid out on a length of baguette with a little broth for dipping.
In the wake of July's stabbing, it was easy for everyone who read or heard about the story to latch onto the idea that a beef simmering for years with former bandmates led to July's stew of violence, but no, screw that.
You can cut them while the beef simmers.
To serve, add the port to the beef and simmer for a few more minutes.
