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A ban on moving to some other home or job along with production quotas were placed on people in trades serving state factories that made imperial court and army garments, cavalry equipment, and arms.
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From the Army-surplus garments appropriated and painstakingly embroidered by flower children to the dashikis and African fabrics embraced by the black-pride movement to the ascetic styles of communes and cults, the exhibition emphasizes how vernacular fashion signalled antiestablishment values and group identity.
"This is why the army is investing in other businesses, such as foodstuff and garments, to generate income," assistant defence minister Major General Mahmoud Nasr said last year.
He is now known for creating extraordinary silhouettes out of everyday garments – previous pieces have been made from 18 Burberry macs, 28 army jackets, and 30 copies of the Financial Times.
The 28-year-old has been running a garment company with her husband Endri, making clothes for the Indonesian army for the past few years.
Grès garments.
The army.
You could kit out an army from the Primark menswear section, I thought, but you'd be hard-put to cut an individual dash in any of the garments.
Engineered Garments shorts.
Cue rending of garments.
When I was young, I shopped at the Army-Navy with the thought that if I bought these clothes and wore them I would prevent some beautiful young man from being killed in the garments.
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com