Two Long Islanders, worried about potential consumer fraud, petitioned the A.T.F. in June to create a third appellation, called simply Long Island, that would encompass all of Nassau and Suffolk Counties.
Although the company's 2009 application to the United States Board of Geographic Names did not mention it, Mr. Jackson's company is also seeking to create a new wine appellation called Alexander Mountain, which, if approved, would permit the company to put a special label on the premium wine it makes from grapes grown at the base of the mountain.
Nobody can really say why the appellation was called St.-Joseph, as one vineyard section was known, beyond the notion that it avoided offending any of the villages by not elevating the name of any one of them.
There are 13 appellations in Sonoma County, and an Alexander Mountain AVA, as the appellation would be called, will help wine lovers know that the grapes are grown in high altitudes in an area with warmer nights and less fog than the valley floor.
"Hombre muy bueno," the president added, proving that one of his all-purpose appellations -- calling someone a "good" or "very good" man -- knows no international borders.
Many American Viticultural Areas, as the American appellations are formally called, are unwieldy designations, with boundaries chosen for political reasons rather than because they circumscribe areas with discrete characteristics of climate and soil.
Abelard refers to a distinction between significatio intellectuum (signification of concepts) and significatio rei (signification of the thing), more properly called nomination or appellation (see De Rijk, Logica Modernorum, vol. II(1), pp. 192 5).
Fortunately, the northern Rhone is well equipped with what might be called entry-level appellations: Crozes-Hermitage, St.-Joseph and the occasional Côtes du Rhône, which is most often made with a blend of grapes but sometimes is strictly syrah, as with Éric Texier's Brézème.
14. Cà de Noci Sottobosco I.G.T. 2009 This gently sparkling red wine from Emilia-Romagna is reminiscent of a Lambrusco, but the producer, Cà de Noci, goes its own way, operating outside the official appellation system, so it cannot be called Lambrusco.
At stands in the various markets, she tried to explain the differences among a dizzying variety of masa-based antojitos — a tlayuda and a garnacha and a memelita and a huarache and a tetela and even something called a gringa (an appellation that I told Abigail she should not take personally).
Seated rigidly behind him was his handler, also eerily stoic, a stocky, reticent sort in his early thirties whom I called "Senor Busco", an appellation he, for some reason, found offensive.
