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We're all surfers with strong ties to the community.
"All surfers are oceanographers, and in the area of breaking waves all are engaged in advanced research".
The passion of virtually all surfers for photographs of themselves in the act of surfing approaches fetishism.
Not all surfers are robust young males; plenty of females and graying diehards surf, some of them well.
All surfers, all readers of surf magazines — and I had memorized nearly every line, every photo caption, in every surf magazine I owned — spent the bulk of their fantasy lives, like it or not, in Hawaii.
Not all surfers have the means to hire their own team, and, because of the ephemeral nature of big waves and how difficult they are to accurately forecast, even those who do have the resources can still have trouble arranging a support crew.
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"All the surfers suddenly had their hands and feet out of the water".
"All the surfers I knew were from Hawaii and California," said Coco Ho, Davis's best friend on the tour and a member of the famous Hawaiian Ho surfing family, and ranked among the top 17.
Mr. Wilson's forthcoming album, "That Lucky Old Sun" (expected this September), written in collaboration with Van Dyke Parks and Scott Bennett, is an earnest salutation to Southern California, all surfer girls and boardwalk strolls.
Among the local stars are Titus Kinimaka, one of the most respected all-around surfers; Keala Kennelly, 25, known for her fearlessness; and especially Andy Irons, 25, the reigning world champion.
They also said it should not have been to hard for Ruby with all the "surfer types".
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com