When you've worked all the tobacco out, you should have a plastic wrapper filled with tobacco and an empty Black 'n Mild with the filter paper still inside.
It came with what looked like an egg roll, but turned out to be a lightly browned wrapper filled with finely diced quince, an appealing conceit of flavors and textures that worked.
Alex Asteínza, the pastry chef, offers one very good visual joke, the Smokeless Cuban, a chocolate pastry wrapper filled with chocolate and peanut butter mousse.
By far the most ambitious main course was a duck tasting, a vast square plate holding, in each of three corners, a variation on the named ingredient: breast seared to order (this time medium rare and on target), pleasingly fatty leg confit, and a spring-roll wrapper filled with spaghetti squash, savoy cabbage and more confit.
There are just five dumplings, and I could have ordered them all - chicken & mushroom, lamb & brandy, Asian squash, duck and pho spices, pork & cilantro - I opted for the last one, which turned out to be beautiful little pockets of hand-formed wonton wrapper filled with juicy bits of pork and bright cilantro.
It happens again with hefty gulf prawns, simply seared on the grill but paired with won-ton wrappers filled with sweet, creamy soybean paste and surrounded by a sharp tomato broth.
There were soft buns stuffed with the bright purple yam called ube, savory chicken empanadas, crisp lumpia wrappers filled with sweet banana and warm pan de sal.
At the same high level are lebni, the lustrous dip of yogurt, dill, cucumbers and walnuts; hummus, the chickpea-and-sesame spread; patlican salata, the smoky, garlic-laden eggplant salad; and sigara boregi, fried cigar-shaped wrappers filled with feta cheese.
Japan's answer to flubber, mochi is a highly glutinous rice that can be rolled out into a sticky, pasta-like wrapper ready for filling with something sweet, in this case home-made red-bean ice cream and green-tea ice cream.
Also good is the Beijing-style crisp lamb, and excellent dumplings with thick, chewy handmade wrappers and filled with scrambled egg and tomatoes.
Though shaped like the folded cookies, they are made with wonton wrappers, fried and filled with a spiced chicken mixture.
