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But Concord grape clafoutis, encased in a thin, sweet, tart crust, was perfect, as was ricotta with kataifi, drizzled honey and pistachios.
"It was shockingly good," she remembers, "a dish to linger over, the pale yellow cream set to just within a wobble of collapse... beautifully complemented by a thin sweet pastry case".
Jessica Siena brought a thin, sweet, sometimes wiry soprano to the central role of Giulia.
Currently, the restaurant is dishing out a can't-miss Arctic Char Crudo with kohlrabi (a relative of cabbage), mustard seeds and piquillo pepper ponzu (a thin, sweet chili pepper sauce).
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Dessert standouts included semiya kheer, a sort of thin, sweet gruel; double ka-meeta, which is a cross between bread pudding and French toast; and gulab jamun, a kind of cheese in syrup.
Balanced between smooth and grainy, clean and meaty, it sat in a thin, barely sweet sauce so light that I didn't realize it was tomato-based.
Oven-baked catfish ($15) was given a sweet, seductive spin by its cornbread-crayfish stuffing and long, thin sweet potato fries.
But now, on the eve of Ms. Furtado's fifth album, "The Spirit Indestructible," we have Janelle Monáe and M.I.A. and Kesha and everyone else, which means a more hospitable and more cluttered playing field for Ms. Furtado's thin, sweet voice.
A fried soft-shell crab is turned into a terrific sandwich ($10) -- crisp and greaseless yet perfectly sweet, served with basil mayonnaise, thin sweet potato fries that are deliciously salty and coleslaw made with pickled cabbage.
It included conventional shoestring fries, which were humdrum, and cottage fries and thin sweet potato fries, both much more memorable.
It's a diminutive bird -- just over three pounds after lunch -- with a thin skin, dense sweet meat and bones that make a delicious stock.
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