These days, though, what a few inventive Beaujolais vignerons (winegrowers) are discovering is that if you modify the traditional Beaujolais methods and treat Gamay like pinot noir, you wind up with a bigger, richer and all together more substantial wine that tastes, well, like a pinot noir.
THE BAR Full bar and substantial wine list (by the bottle, from the low $20's to $290; by the glass, $7 to $11).
Other than that, the vast majority of full-service restaurants have no such restrictions, and in fact some have substantial wine lists.
These invest in public companies that have substantial wine assets, not in the bottles of wine themselves.
Some have better soil than others, some better exposure and, most importantly, some are planted with younger vines that yield lighter, less substantial wine.
These were more substantial wines, filled with lush aromas, yet they retained their lively acidity and never tasted hot or alcoholic.
"I was at a Christmas party recently where there was a substantial amount of wine being purchased.
"Proposing the closure of 6 Music is naive and confuses the very proposition of the BBC," he tweeted to his 1.3 million followers after consuming, he later confessed, a substantial amount of wine.
Fascino (pronounced FAH-shee-no; the word is Italian for "fascination" or "charm") has no liquor license, but it has already built a substantial clientele of wine buffs, people looking for food that will stand up to their Barbarescos and boutique zinfandels.
A substantial part of the additional wine, he told me, would be exported to the United States.
