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With pan-roasted cod, he serves a ragout of beans that could not be more French.
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Lunch recently included roasted squab on a ragout of runner beans, and steelhead salmon in mussel broth vinaigrette.
Our other entrees excelled too, notably the monstrously large, grilled herb-marinated veal chop in a lovely citrus balsamic reduction, which arrived with sauteed mushrooms and a ragout of cannellini beans.
Entrees include sturgeon schnitzel with cucumber salad and sauce remoulade; duck confit, pan roasted, with a ragout of Tuscan beans and vegetables; and pot au feu with marrow bone and traditional accompaniments.
My favorite entrees were both fish: crispy, crisscrossed rainbow trout fillets with a ragout of fava beans, English peas, glistening guanciale and pungent mint; and a lovely pan-seared skate wing, its golden-brown edges looking like a perfectly crimped pie crust, with wilted beet greens and fingerling potatoes over a ramp purée (I would happily eat this last dish again and again).
Entrees include grilled swordfish steak with sauteed escarole and a ragout of white beans, sun-dried tomatoes and roasted garlic; fresh black pepper fettuccine with New Zealand cockles in a white wine, garlic and fresh herb broth; and grilled New York strip steak with garlic mashed potatoes, fried red onions and a roasted shallot reduction.
Entrees include grilled leg of lamb with butternut squash risotto and broccoli rape; baked shrimp with feta cheese and a fresh tomato sauce with a side of rice; and pan-seared tuna, crusted in Mediterranean spices, served over a ragout of baby white beans, and oyster mushrooms.
Parsley dumplings provide the X factor in a dish of crisp sweetbreads with a ragout of mushrooms.
Among the entrees is pan-roasted venison accompanied by a ragout of fiddlehead ferns, morel mushrooms and baby turnips.
The Hollywood and Vine filet mignon, set atop a ragout of spinach and wild mushrooms, was velvety.
A ragout of wild mushrooms was another stellar possibility, as was a marriage of prosciutto, fig jam and Gorgonzola, which revealed a tasty counterpoint of sweet and salty.
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com