Exact(6)
Wheat bread, fresh ham, a light mustard mixed in with the butter.
I really liked dishes such as tartare of rabbit with tiny slivers of white asparagus, a light mustard dressing and a generous tweak of crunchy salt.
The beefburger is tall and pretty; grilled beef, cheese, rich red tomato jam, a light mustard mayo and pickle, cut thinly length-wise.
We were impressed by the pan-seared striped bass with its crisp skin, served over creamy risotto, and by a perfectly cooked salmon special in a light mustard sauce.
A handful of dishes might bring a diner back — lovely braised artichoke hearts; well-made linguine vongole and spaghetti carbonara (good and eggy, with tasty nuggets of pancetta); a pretty presentation of salmon with toasted bread crumbs and a light mustard sauce; and an unforgettable little tartufo at dessert time — but much of what we ate was underseasoned and short on surprise.
Pinkly cooked veal kidneys in a light mustard sauce (£6.50) and grilled whole plaice with boiled potatoes and spinach (£13.20) showed more promise, but a wedge of quince and almond tart (£5.50) was a trial, my fork almost doing a Uri Geller trying to crack the pastry.
Similar(54)
Though tempted by pan-seared Chilean sea bass with shiitake mushrooms and leeks, we opted instead for pan-fried trout encrusted in blue cornmeal batter (buttery and without a single bone) and roasted pork tenderloin in a light Dijon mustard crust.
Grilled John Dory did very well with a light grain mustard sauce, moderated in flavor to match the mild but meaty quality of this excellent fish.
But the stand-out, worth a visit all on its own, is the crispy pig cheeks with light mustard crème fraîche and spicy apple and raisin chutney (£8).
Even light mustard and asparagus green are on offer — the colors almost always allied to nature.
ON THE PLATES Two orders of crab cakes, served with poached organic eggs, light mustard and tarragon ($38 each).
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