On a less exalted plane are excellent appetizers like beet carpaccio ($7), fat sweet beets sliced extremely thin, forming a platform for crumbled goat cheese and peppery arugula, and thick stalks of grilled asparagus topped with roasted porcini mushrooms ($8).
I would lean toward a white, like a peppery grüner veltliner, especially one of the more age-worthy specimens.
Shrimp, for example, with some torn watercress leaves mixed in just for a bit of a peppery bite.
Hitherto best known as the rough-edged Calamity Jane in TV's Deadwood, the wonderful Robin Weigert gives a pointed, peppery performance as the less content half of a moneyed Garden State lesbian couple, who finds the inner ignition that motherhood and interior design have failed to show her when she embarks on a secret career as a high-end escort to other women in her position.
Cherries hid under a red mullet in a peppery nasturtium sauce.
Less common are the enchiladas de mole, wrapped in a sweet, peppery brown sauce with a lasting chocolate note.
The American classics we tried were mediocre – a £32 surf'n'turf combo of under-seasoned burger and overcooked lobster; a tender but more or less tasteless New York strip steak; forgettable fries, tobacco onions with a weird peppery aftertaste.
The wine is nimble, with an attractive peppery quality, even if slightly less complex than the nose implies.
Each cheese comes with its own texture and "ripeness": Parmesan: is a fruity flavoured cheese with a peppery after-taste.
The other, Edward Kienholz, was a bearish farm boy-artist with a peppery temperament.
