But the accompaniments mostly work to the benefit of the star item: in the risotto, tender clams gave sharp counterpoint to the woodsy mushrooms, while crepinettes and raviolinis, filled with ricotta and chives, were simple harmonies to the well-seasoned prime beef.
The tender, saffron-scented risotto with shreds of osso buco ($20) that I ate was easily one of the very best I've had outside of Italy.
If you want to have a chance at the goodies — tasty risotto, tender short ribs, tacos, tortilla soup, pumpkin soup, bite-sized cheeses or desserts — you don't show up late.
Three full-size entrees that we tried also scored: osso bucco perched on saffron risotto; very tender, pumpkin-seed-crusted pork tenderloin; and short ribs atop mashed potatoes and spinach.
Osso buco, also paired with risotto, was meltingly tender, as was a large medallion of filet mignon, served with mashed potatoes and asparagus.
Equally fine was the succulent veal chop escorted by a noteworthy wild mushroom risotto, crisp but tender asparagus and a whiff of white truffle oil.
However, if you talk to Ernesto Lombardo, the manager and sometime cook, he'll make you a plate of perfectly grilled vegetables, a seafood platter with langoustines, a marvelous risotto or thick, tender veal chops.
Two other don't-miss entrees were osso buco, a tender, tasty mountain escorted by risotto; and filet mignon (two large medallions that were far from mignon) in a lush shallot, sage and wine sauce.
Better selections were the grilled branzino under a lemon-sparked arugula salad, a special of tender osso buco with creamy risotto Milanese, and a beautifully marinated rib-eye steak ($29) with a chimichurri sauce on the side.
Duck duck, a special similar to the duck already listed on the regular menu, brought not only the leg confit but also a perfectly cooked magret, sliced to reveal a pale pink, tender center; a stunning mushroom risotto shared the plate.
