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The chemical properties of flour and dough also make wheat versatile.
"Wild relatives are one way to try to make wheat, or whatever major species it is, more resilient or use fewer resources," sayes Mayes, who is also theme director for Biotechnology, Breeding and Seed Systems at the new centre.
Developing improved wheat breeds, species and technologies will also make wheat production easier and cheaper for farmers in the developing world – and so give them better access to markets.
Yet that is what food companies have been calling wheat from which the germ and bran have been removed, leaving what is in effect pure starch, devoid of the fiber, oils, iron and vitamins that make wheat nutritious.
Scientists there have created a way to make wheat release a pheromone that mimics the pheromone of a frightened aphid (a type of pest), which then signals other aphids to flee.
"Yeah, honestly, the biggest image and tone reference was this 2009 YouTube tutorial on how to make wheat paste I used to watch all the time, in its scratchy Windows 98-looking graphics and overly dry instructions.
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A few years ago, Ms. Bentley contacted the owner of a wheat-free food company in Seattle and asked him if he could make wheat-free communion wafers.
But now they have competition from hundreds of companies that make wheat- or gluten-free baked goods that are as moist and flavorful as the real thing.
The Atkins diet and a fashion for gluten allergies have made wheat seem less wholesome.
Global and local conditions driving up food prices made wheat an increasingly attractive alternative, and the income ratio of opium to wheat per hectare fell from 10 1 to 3 1.
"Yes, they have a factory that makes wheat gluten," said the man, who did not give his name and then telephoned the manager of Xuzhou Anying to check whether he could take visitors to the factory.
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