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They may look funky and imperfect, with obscure names like Aunt Ruby's German green and Cherokee purple, but their true tomato flavor is what chefs look for when composing a meal.
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For $20, diners can compose a meal from among two dozen small plates; "unlimited" suggests you could try them all, should you be so inclined.
It is divided into market and tavern offerings, which I found confusing and unnecessary since, except for minor differences in price, diners can compose a meal from both.
There might also be unimaginative combinations like endive with walnuts, pears and blue cheese, or salads that try too hard to compose a meal -- say, mixed greens with sliced duck breast and potatoes.
The menu is encyclopedic, and there aren't many overlaps — with the help of one of the patient waitresses, you can easily compose a meal in which each dish tastes wholly distinct.
In 'doing being ordinary', participants systematically resist the notion that being a vegan is complicated in other words, that it is both difficult to compose a meal and to protect your health.
It is hard to decide whether to compose a meal out of the many interesting grazing plates or go with the more traditional style of appetizer and entrée.
If you're musician, try composing a gourmet meal.
The present study analysed glucose, proinsulin, insulin and the proinsulin to insulin ratio after a standardized test meal where effort was made to compose a test meal representing an 'every-day lunch' for GBP-treated subjects.
All in all, though, plenty of first-rate options exist to compose a superb meal in one of the most civilized and soothing settings in town.
The Times's restaurant critic Frank Bruni's end-of-the-year column for 2006, in which he tried to compose a perfect meal, recommended Blaue Gans's kaiserschmarren ($9), a "gigantic pancake" that has "come through a blizzard of powdered sugar".
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Justyna Jupowicz-Kozak
CEO of Professional Science Editing for Scientists @ prosciediting.com